Monday, December 13, 2010

Magical Pushkar and more!

Namaste everyone!

We're currently in Jodhpur, Rajasthan after an extended visit to Pushkar the best place in India thus far! We were only going to stay two nights but managed (after a very lengthy process!) to change our train tickets and stay for four nights.


Pushkar means Push - Flower, and Kar - Hand apparently the lake is the site where one of the Hindu gods Bramha dropped a lotus flower - and the lake appeared! Pushkar also has the only (or maybe one of two?) Bramha temples and 'true Hindu devotees' should visit at least once in their lifetime. So in Pushkar there is a mixture of touristsn and pilgrims visiting the temple - heaps of hippies, dreadlocks are everywhere and the tourists there are very chilled out - possibly as a result of the 'laughing lassi's' that are on offer at every second restaurant. Shopping here was also very fun and relaxing - there is hardly any traffic, just some crazy people on motorbikes every now and then and the store owners so nice! They don't chase you down the street when you don't end up purchasing something from their store and the clothes etc are a wee bit different to the rest of the stuff we've seen so far. Alex bought a cool purple hooded jumper thats hood is really long and pointy (trying to fit into the hippy scene...) and I bought an amazing embroided fabric entrance thingy - really not sure where I am going to use this as I have no double door entrances in my room but I couldn't resist. Among brightly coloured animals, hindu gods and flowers it has the words 'Good Luck' embroided and in hindu 'welcome'.

Below is a shot off our balcony in Pushkar at Paramount Palace Guest House, in the far left there's a lake (can't really see it in that photo sorry) and below our washing hanging in the sun. We managed to bargain down the room to 500 rupees per night (approx. $15) and utilised the balcony at every possible moment. Every minute of the day (and often at night!) there is music playing in Pushkar. Thankfully most of the time it's tasteful and makes walking around the streets and sitting on the balcony just perfect - except for the odd crazy wedding procession - I can't believe the music that comes out of those sound machines and it goes on for at least four hours, the fireworks they use also sound as loud as bombs!





Lake at sundown in Pushkar
For all those desperate to know what Maaza looks like! (rooftop restaurant in Pushkar)

This is the plastic bottle version for all those wondering whether Maaza was only distributed in glass bottles.

Yet another amazing roadside Chai store, 5 rupees a cup (3 or 4 for locals) 
Posing next to a cow next to Pushkar Lake
Wiping cow poo off my feet, stepped in a big juicy fresh one which Alex saw but didn't think to tell me as apparently 'I usually see them'...
Snake charmer in Pushkar 
Millions of pigeons in the bathing ghats, Pushkar
Getting a shave from a very happy (yet later, very demanding) wee chap in Pushkar
Alex now has a greasy Indian moustache
On the top a huge mountain we climbed, there is a temple at the top although I imagine no one makes the trip up there everyday... I could be wrong though but I definitely struggled up the millions of steps! Beautiful view at the top though
Audio guided tour of the fort in Jodhpur haha, we looked geeky but it was actually a really cool audio tour. We arrived in Jodhpur last night and are leaving to Jaisalmer tomorrow night on an overnight train.

The omelette man in Jodhpur - apparently this guy used to make a 'modest living' until one day the lonely planet accidently named his hotel the omelette shop and popped it in the lonely planet since then business has been booming! Apparently some days he goes through over a thousand eggs! We had the massala cheese omelette that was highly reccomended and came with 4 pieces of bread for only 30 rupees (90 cents) and Alex got some boiled then fried eggs which sound revolting but looked delicious, the omelettes were amazing and as I write Alex is trying to make me go there for dinner haha. The omelette man even has a guest book where everyone writes comments about his amazing omelettes and hands you over hard copies of articles people have written about him. A real cutie and such good value!

Tomorrow morning we're off on a village safari in a jeep to the nearby villages of Bishnoi apparently it's an amazing trip and Jodhpur doesn't have a lot going for it apart from the fort so it'll be a nice day out of the city.

Hopefully will get a chance to write another blog soon,
xxxx

Monday, December 6, 2010

Khajuraho, Orchha and Rathambore... Now Jaipur

 Namaste Everyone!

Haven't been able to access a computer for a while!  Hope you had a fabulous 21st Miss Green and Miss Wallace!

I'm thinking of opening a Poppadom concept store in New Zealand... Maybe using a house... A shop selling items I import from here, a restaurant serving amazing Dosa's and Thali's (look them up they're delicious!) with tables in the garden, fairy lights etc... south Indian coffee and amazing Chai... possibly a aurveydic massage area, henna? etc etc... What do you all think? Poppadom moves to Auckland!

The computer is this internet cafe won't allow my photos to be turned the correct way so they're all turned to the side... Let's hope you're all up for a bit of head turning!

Subject number 1. took a liking to Alex on the train... He requested a photo, and told us he thought it was a good one! Then spent approx 15min asking what Alex's salary was all the while standing approx 10cm away from us in an almost empty train. Loco!
Karma sutra sculptures at Khajuraho, and school trip to the temples/sculptures... Not sure whether entirely appropriate for 5/6year olds!
Small store just outside our hotel in Orchha - where we slept for most of our visit! But Orchha was such a beautiful, small wee town - a nice break from the hustle and bustle. There was however an Indian wedding going on in the temple next to our guest house and we swear the guy speaking must of been a recording, the ceremony honestly went for three hours, non stop talking! Lovely background for an afternoon nap.... I later went and investigated and there must of been about 3/400 people eating in the huge temple it was in - and newspapers I have read here have been filled with wedding talk - they spend crazy amounts on them! One in the newspaper was described as a small gathering of family and close friends which amounted to 2000 guests!
On the river in Orchha, very picturesque don't you all think? We saw vultures here (well in Orchha I mean) which was extremely exciting for Mr Reed... I was more concerned about a potential attack.. I have been very on edge when it comes to animals of all descriptions (bar goats and cows - which are EVERYWHERE! but I have not encountered any difficulties with) even sitting completely still with my hands behind my back when a cat decided my lap was the perfect spot for a nap one morning at breakfast - Much to the amusement of a few french people in the 'restaurant' who hadn't heard of rabies (!?). I informed them about this fatal disease and the real risk even a friendly neighbourhood cat poses to me! However I think in future I will instead tell all onlookers that I am simply allergic. Pigs are another animal we have been seeing a lot of, and after initially worrying about a potential attack (some of them are quite big!) I have discovered they are quite scared of us humans. Alex wants to visit the monkey temple tomorrow where you can buy a load of peanuts at the gate but, quote the lonely planet, "be prepared to get mobbed by the hundreds of hungry monkeys living at the temple" .... No thanks! I will only be entering this temple with some sort of heavy protection wear on I think.... or hopefully shopping instead...
Why did this one decide not to rotate? Don't ask me! I just pay 20 rupees per hour to use this thing! Anyway this ones for you mum, these old sewing machines are everywhere, even shops selling them and thought this shot was quite cute - in Orchha
Just some of the ridiculously big crowd that gathered around our car when it got a flat tyre... We often feel how famous people must feel here (LOL!) But honestly people take our photos in the street without asking heaps, or come and ask whether they can get a photo with us.. One time I was on the train, maybe 14hour into the journey so obviously looking shocking when a family asked that I come into the next carriage to have my photo taken with the mother of the family, so we sat, held hands and smiled... I really have no idea what they're going to do with that shot! Fridge maybe? "This is my friend I made on the train one time"?
Additionally the staring gets slightly ridiculous at times.. and I've started goggling some of the teenage boys back when they stare for long periods which I'm sure gives them a wee shock but has proved to be quite effective.
We got a driver from Orchha to Rathambore as there is no public transport route, only $120 for both of us for a 5 hr drive (you pay for their return journey) and it was very relaxing to travel in a car! But when we were almost at Rathambore - mid deep deep, pitch black jungle, on a teeny tiny dirt road they turn around and say to us.. "This forest is very very dangerous at night"... oh yes? We reply, because of animals? "No, no, Indian terrorist groups living in here rob cars at night"... Great.. I immediately locked my door and became a lot more alert, clutching the door in preparation for some kind of ambush but we managed to reach our destination safely but as for our drivers who drove back the same way... late at night.. I guess we'll never know.... : P
Here we are about to head off on our first safari at Rathambore National Park. We wern't lucky enough to see any tigers but was still pretty exciting cruising round the park in this jeep with our eyes intently peeled the whole time.. "What are you looking for again?" my mind would ask me "orange and black, orange and black..." Haha. I caught Mr Reed tending to his nails at one point which I was extremely unimpressed by considering it was his childhood dream to see a tiger in the wild... We booked in for the morning safari the following day so were up at 5.30am but alas we were not lucky that time either... we did manage to see some fresh tiger footprints in the sand.. but our silly guide drove the opposite way of the footprints each time.. one lady said she expected a guy in a tiger suit to jump out of the bushes at any moment.. And another guy had been on 5 safaris and still no tiger - I felt quite sorry for his dedicated wife who had accompanied him each time!
When we got back to the hotel we turned on the TV and would you believe there was a programme on National Geographic about tigers in Rathambore Park - Where we had just been! Couldn't believe it, What are the chances!? We saw tigers lounging about in places we had just been driving through looking for them!
Attempting to disguise the hotel duvet in a silk liner to take on the morning safari (was bitterly cold!) - very much a failed attempt, we froze!
Indian tree pye bird eating biscuit off Alex's hand
Samba deer at Rathambore - pretty boring other animals at the park to be honest but everyone else was taking photos of them so thought I should! 
The dork setting us a bearing to get to our hotel in Jaipur... a number of other tourists looked on, laughing. Once the bearing was all set (and me growing very impatient) he got up, and the stupid compass fell to the floor - bearing lost! And the german couple opposite in laughter as I rolled my eyes. Sometimes I worry about him....
We are staying at a 'paying guest house' here in Jaipur - so it's someones home with some rooms available, such lovely people, in fact the best service we've ever had at a hotel and delicious fresh dinner last night.
Note the multitudes of birds behind me - Old city, Jaipur
Polish looking do you think? (Alex i mean) This is at the Amber Fort, Jaipur which we visited this afternoon. Amazing place! Like a mini great wall of China! Forgot to load some of the better scenic pictures onto the comp so you'll all have to wait until next time!
Amber Fort
Amber Fort. A guy was trying to sell us some paintings on this road... and after telling him SO many times NO! we eventually decided to sprint away from him next time he asked... so he asked and it was literally a 3, 2, 1 - go! situation running down the hill. LOL moment of the afternoon.



Alright kids, I'm off for dinner! To the Peacock Rooftop Restaurant to be exact so hopefully I get to try some peacock finally.... Ha, got ya. Think it's actually another vege only restaurant much to Alex's disgust.

Hope you're all having superb starts to summer - it's cold here! I think I'll probably come back whiter than I was when I left which will definitely be a scary level of whiteness.... I miss you all heaps!

Off to Pushkar on Tuesday morning which I'm quite excited about thanks to Miss Gloria's reccomendations!

Update me with your news please! (FB/email or on the blog)

xxxxxxxxxxx

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Varanasi

Namaste Friends!

I'm at our hotel using expensive internet because the internet cafe I was in kept disconnecting and with alex on a bike ride I was no match for the gang of Indian men running it. I actually cried on the street after. Haha so you all better appreciate this post! Actually this can serve as my therapy so will be relatively cheap.

Lots to say! We had a mixed three days in Varanasi - amazing city, but being hounded by 'touts' 24/7 wherever you are gets so tiring! (mixture of this plus 14hour train ride plus mean internet men has caused my wee mental breakdown)... Every rickshaw driver, shop 'owner', boat owner, silk shop owner is constantly trying to get you into their shop, and they're so darn persistant! I'm quite a bitch to most of them I have to admit, Alex usually ends up chatting to them whilst I at intervals turn around and yell 'GO AWAY!" ... Their response? You're wife is so grumpy sir... She not like to talk much? Apparently there is no Hindi translation for girlfriend haha. However after teaching him the 'do not say anything rule', things have improved greatly and we have been able to get around ever so slightly faster.... I actually found a t-shirt in Varanasi that said

No rickshaw
No boat
No silk
No Problem!

No problem is the second most used phrase after namaste, you come look at my shop? No buy, no problem...

That aside these encounters have often been halerious.... one rickshaw driver who persisted with asking Alex (knew not to attempt speaking to me) "where you going sir" ... A: Your momma's house, reply: Yes yes no problem... Haha man oh man

In other news we discovered a hot new beverage 'Mazaa' - a mango fruit drink, with alphonso - who is apparently the king of mangoes - sooo delicious and refreshing, GET YOURS TODAY!

All touts aside, walking along the ghats in Varanasi is amazing. So much colour and interesting people to watch I loved sitting in ghat side restaurants and at our hotel watching the world go by.

I've written down a few points to ensure I pop on poppadom : ) So will just quickly jot them down!

Alex has a new found obsession with Buffalo, wanting to follow them everywhere and get his picture taken next to them.
Most amazing pizza at Vaatika cafe
 Dawn boat ride on the Ganges
Attempting to row ze boat
My attempt, I thought I would be much, much better being an ex-rower and all, however after 5min of turning the boat in full circles I handed it back to our slightly loco boat paddler.

Sun rise on the Ganges

Man who sailed out with stuff to sell to tourists on boats! Crazy I tell you! they never stop!
Authentic devotee who one night called 'Goodnight' to us from his rooftop balcony. A real cutie.
 Weighing beads for necklace making

Alex continues to deny that he is reading Eat, Pray, Love, but his persistent requests to 'borrow' it lead me to believe otherwise...

Had a lot more to say but between booking thailand stuff and ze slow upload of photos I have to get off el internet! 

Until next time my young ones

xoxoxox

Indian girl.